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fashion design


by Martina Paukertová




It’s four o’clock in the morning. Your eyes are wide open, the dark is not truly dark; partly because you have got used to staring into it the whole night, partly because the blue outside the window is now getting paler and paler. It is making you even more anxious. The more you want to sleep the more difficult it is. Shadows around your room are moving. What do they want? You are restless. Your duvet is restless, too. It seems to be twining around you. Does it want to strangle you? Or is it a dream? Does it mean you have finally fallen asleep? The difference between day and night is no longer definite. Modern technology has meant there’s no need for traditional routines. Our biorhythms are upset and dysfunctional. We have got used to life during the night: we work, party, watch a box set non-stop over two days. The companies selling the TV shows are probably the same companies that sell the apps that claim to cure you of insomnia. The names of sleeping medicines can sound like magic spells when the border between dreams and reality is disappearing. This collection playfully explores our complex relationship with sleep and night-time, how our places of comfort and rest can also be places of activity and unrest. This is a collection of outfits you can wear to a party and fall asleep in (or not) wherever you drop. Outerwear pieces are made with upcycled duvet covers, down from old duvets, fastened with vintage thread buttons; they both hug and threaten to restrict the wearer, and create a lumpy, bumpy silhouette of the night. Catsuits and onesies, garments associated with sleepwear, are worn as base layers and have integrated balaclavas, gloves and mittens, representing the degrees of helplessness an insomniac feels at different stages of the night. A colour story of midnight and sky blues, electric purple, aged whites and shocking pink is inspired by night-time, both natural and synthetic. Prints are surreal and dreamlike, the faded florals and stripes of traditional bed linen clash with glitchy digital motifs. We can never be sure who the insomniacs are. Each of them has a different tactic to survive the night. You probably met them too, maybe at an afterparty, maybe in some old dreams. You might have seen them pacing around their house early in the morning or walking on the roof in the middle of the night.

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